The Accidental Chef: For warmth, whip up some of Mom’s gingerbread
Published: January 6, 2009
I have many fond memories of waking up to the aroma of my mom’s freshly baked gingerbread. The combination of spices unique to this dense cake can only be described as intoxicating, and I am convinced they somehow miraculously made our kitchen just a tad warmer.
Accented with a simple dollop of lightly sweetened whipped cream, Mom’s gingerbread was the perfect accompaniment to a mug of freshly brewed coffee. Her gingerbread had intense spice flavorings yet boasted just a hint of sugar, and her expertly cooked cakes simply melted in your mouth (along with the whipped cream). In retrospect, I can’t think of a better way to begin a chilly morning.
Our family recipe for gingerbread goes back to my mother’s German roots. It is rumored that the recipe itself is more than 100 years old, which I am inclined to believe because of its simplicity. However, we still couldn’t let go of those Southern roots, and our family’s gingerbread retains a touch of Appalachia with the addition of molasses instead of brown sugar or honey (which were commonly used in Europe) to enhance its delicate sweetness.
For spices, Mom always included allspice, a dried fruit common in Jamaican cooking and not a combination of “all spices” as some might believe, along with cinnamon and ginger. Variations on her theme can include cloves, nutmeg, cardamom or anise. Whatever combination you choose, there’s one thing you can be certain of—it only takes one bite of a freshly baked piece of gingerbread to warm you from within.
Gingerbread originated in Europe, and it is thought to have been created by Catholic monks who had access to a certain foreign spice popular in the Middle East—ginger. Introduced to Europe during the First Crusades, ginger—along with almonds and citrus fruits from the East—gained immediate culinary popularity.
Cooks in England, France and especially Germany soon learned how to incorporate ginger into their baking and what resulted were crisp, flat cookies, rich cakes and dark squares of piquant bread. These intensely spiced treats became the centerpiece of celebrations, such as regional fairs and holidays, and were often served with pitchers of lemon sauce and whipped cream, or were cut into shapes and dusted in powdered sugar.
Gingerbread eventually made its way across the Atlantic. Regional versions, with local ingredients, of this popular cake began to surface throughout the country. In New England the sweetener of choice was maple syrup, while sorghum molasses was used almost exclusively south of the Mason-Dixon Line.
Today, gingerbread takes on a variety of forms. From elaborate, handcrafted gingerbread houses to the classic, ever-popular gingerbread men, it’s clear that gingerbread is much more than simply sweetened, spiced bread. Classic gingerbread has morphed into a variety of goodies, and can now be experienced as gingerbread bread puddings, gingerbread waffles or gingerbread muffins. And, the next time you visit your local coffee shop, keep an eye open for seasonal gingerbread latte.
So, if you’re looking for a little warmth this winter, take a few moments and whip up a batch of Mom’s gingerbread. Not only is this a great recipe for beginner bakers because of its ease of preparation, but it’s one that will keep the whole family deliciously happy.
Kendra Bailey Morris is a Richmond-based food writer, culinary instructor and author of “White Trash Gatherings: From-Scratch Cooking for Down-Home Entertaining” (Ten Speed Press). Send ideas, tips or culinary questions to
or visit http://www.theaccidentalchef.net.
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