Here’s a toast to Biltmore’s bubbly history

Happy New Year.

For me, there is no better way to toast the New Year than with a glass of champagne. Most of the American champagnes made by the traditional methode champenoise (or sparkling wines, as the French would have us call them) are produced in California. However, many others are made throughout the country.

The Biltmore Estate Winery in Asheville, N.C., produces some of the most delightful methode champenoise champagnes in America. I first became acquainted with these champagnes several years ago while writing a book about American-owned champagne wineries. The Biltmore was one of 10 at that time.

Most of you are, I am sure, familiar with the Biltmore — the house, the grounds and the beautiful estate. Built between 1890 and 1895, the 250-room house sits on 125,000 acres near Asheville. George Washington Vanderbilt, grandson of the shipping and railroad tycoon, built it as a summer home.

The Biltmore House became a favorite residence of the Vanderbilts and their only child, Cornelia. Upon her marriage to John Francis Amherst Cecil, it became the Cecils’ residence. In 1930, Mr. and Mrs. Cecil opened the Biltmore House and its gardens to the public.

The tale of the grape

The Biltmore Estate began experimenting with growing wine grapes in 1971 on a 15-acre plot below the mansion. French-American hybrids were planted and did well. The climate and the 2,200-foot elevation were conducive to growing wine grapes.

Since it was the intention of Mr. Vanderbilt, according to his grandson, William Cecil, “to maintain a working estate in the European tradition,” it was only fitting that a vineyard and winery operation be established.

The first winemaker engaged by Cecil was Phillipe Jourdain, a Frenchman who had excellent wine credentials and was a consultant to several wineries in France. Under Jourdain’s supervision, the 15-acre vineyard was phased out. He selected new areas for vineyards and proceeded to plant 125 acres in vinifera grapes. An artificial lake was built for irrigation. Today there are 94 acres of vineyard with 15 varieties of grapes.

A round for the house

In May 1985, the Biltmore Estate Winery officially opened to the public. The 90,000-square-foot facility is in buildings originally designed to be part of the Biltmore dairy operations. With the closing of the dairy, the buildings were renovated, expanded and equipped with state-of-the-art winemaking equipment.

In the grand European tradition of many European wineries, the centerpiece of the building is a clock tower. Austrian in style, the winery includes eight stained-glass windows designed by John La Farge, the mentor of Louis Comfort Tiffany. The stained-glass windows are in the Welcoming Center, Tasting Room and Retail Sales Area. There is a guided tour of the winery, and tasting is available.

Bernard Delille is the winemaster at Biltmore Winery. He is a native of France and came to the United States in 1986 to join Biltmore as assistant winemaker. He studied enology in Lyon and served an internship in Bordeaux. Upon Jourdain’s retirement, Delille took over the entire winery operation.

The grapes for the champagne are all hand picked into small lug boxes and transported to the winery for pressing. After the cuvee (base wine) is blended, the second fermentation starts in early spring.

After this second fermentation is completed, the champagne bottles are aged for two to three years in a maze of underground tunnels that had existed under the dairy barn.

Since the first release of champagne in 1982 there has been a steady increase in champagne production. Today Biltmore has six different champagnes produced by the methode champenoise. They range from dry to semi-dry and are made primarily with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. However, the Pas de Deux is a sweet champagne made with the Muscat Canelli grapes. It is ideal as a dessert wine.

In addition to champagne, Biltmore also produces a number of still wines, all of which are available for tasting.

The Biltmore Winery is the most visited winery in the United States, with more than 1 million visitors annually.

In addition to touring the Biltmore House, one can stay at the four-star hotel on the premises. There also is the Deerpark Restaurant, which serves continental and Southern specialties.

The entire Biltmore Estate is still a family operation with Bill Cecil Jr., great-grandson of George W. Vanderbilt, being in charge.

When I was writing my book “Serve with Champagne” I enjoyed working with the Biltmore staff and Steve Wenger on recipes to pair with their champagne. Following is one of these recipes.

Ideal for a hot or cold buffet, this beef tenderloin is oven roasted and served with a creamy mustard-cognac mayonnaise.

Serve Biltmore Blanc de Blanc champagne as an accompaniment to the beef.

Beef Tenderloin with Mustard-Cognac Sauce

1 beef tenderloin, weighing about 3 to 3½ pounds

Freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup mayonnaise

¼ cup sour cream

½ cup Dijon mustard

3 tablespoons cognac

Preheat the oven to 350F. Rub the beef with black pepper to taste.

Place the beef in a shallow pan and roast in the preheated oven for approximately 30 to 40 minutes, to an internal temperature of 140 F or to desired doneness.

Meanwhile prepare the sauce by combining the mayonnaise, sour cream, mustard and cognac.

Blend thoroughly and refrigerate until ready to use.

When the meat is done, remove it from the oven and let it stand for a few minutes. Then slice it and serve with the Cognac-Mustard Sauce. Serves six to eight.