Tiny cabbage doesn’t get its just deserts

Brussels sprouts are one of my favorite vegetables and they only are available in the winter. They are still in our markets, but will not be for long.

Brussels sprouts are not a beloved vegetable by most Americans, because they traditionally have been overcooked, giving them a strong taste.

The French gave Brussels sprouts their name because they were introduced into French cooking from Belgium, where they grew. No one knows when Brussels sprouts were cultivated in the region surrounding Brussels. Some records say that they were grown there as early as the 13th century. They also grew wild in northern Germany and the Germans call them “Rosenkohl,” meaning rose cabbages, as they resemble rose buds.

Mental powers

Historians are uncertain as to when Brussels sprouts were first eaten. Some food historians say they were eaten in Roman times, and Romans believed that the consumption of Brussels sprouts enhanced one’s mental agility. Marc Anthony is said to have chewed Brussels sprouts for days before the battle of Actium, but apparently to no avail, as he lost the battle.

Roman chefs prized these mini-cabbages for their rarity and imported them from the coastal regions of Western Europe, where they grew wild. Because these cabbages grew in the form of a head, Roman doctors assumed that Brussels sprouts were a cure for drunkenness and the headaches resulting from this condition.

Belgian botanists first described the Brussels sprout in 1587 and identified it as a member of the cabbage family. The plant did not attract much attention as a food until a century later.

Flemish pride

By 1793 the Belgians were exporting their sprouts. Brussels sprouts have been a source of Flemish national pride ever since. In 1820 Belgium designated Brussels sprouts as the country’s official green vegetable. They have graced ornate palace dining tables and roughly hewn farmhouse peasant tables alike. In Belgian cookery Brussels sprouts are frequently paired with smoked sausages or ham.

In the middle of the 19th century Brussels sprouts crossed the English Channel and became popular in England. Today the English are the largest consumers of Brussels sprouts in the world. The British devote about seven times the amount of acreage to this crop as we do in the United States, where it is grown primarily in California and New York. Brussels sprouts are among the few Western vegetables that have been adopted by the Chinese.

Brussels sprouts are typically grown as a fall crop. Connoisseurs claim that they are at their best after the first snow falls. A touch

of frost seems to sweeten their flavor.

These miniature cabbages, 1½ half inches across at maximum, grow on a stem. The top of the stem is graced with large leaves, which loosely form a cabbage head. As the top sprouts, which generally ripened first, are picked, others develop below them. Harvesting is a continuous process for a month or two. One plant can yield as many as 100 sprouts.

The smallest and tightest Brussels sprouts are the best tasting. In Belgium it is considered a delicacy to serve Brussels sprouts no larger than a fingernail. They should be crisp to the touch and bright green. I usually pass up any loose-leafed ones, particularly if I don’t plan to use them immediately. The sprouts tend to open over time, even when stored in the refrigerator. Also, I have found that it is best to avoid sprouts with yellowing or rusted leaves, because these are past their prime and will have a strong taste.

The classic way to prepare Brussels sprouts is to parboil or blanch them. Before doing so, pull off any loose leaves and make a tiny X cut in the base of the sprout to hasten cooking time. The English like to combine their cooked sprouts with cooked chestnuts and serve them with melted butter. My California friends frequently cook them with equal amounts of small mushrooms and some chopped red pepper. I like Brussels sprouts with some freshly grated Parmesan cheese and a touch of nutmeg.

For an entirely different entrée, try serving Brussels sprouts Chinese style with shrimp. The delicacy of the shrimp is a good balance to the sprouts.

Brussels Sprouts

and Shrimp Stir-Fry

10 ounces Brussels sprouts, trimmed, an X cut in the stem end

2 tablespoons chili sauce

1 teaspoon chili powder

2 tablespoons sesame oil

2 tablespoons dry sherry

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

6 green onions, bulbs and green tops chopped separately

1 clove garlic, minced

1½ tablespoons minced fresh ginger

1 pound shrimp, shelled and deveined

1 teaspoon crushed dried hot red pepper flakes

Cook the Brussels sprouts in lightly salted water for about 8 minutes or until barely tender. Rinse under cold water and drain. Cut into ¼-inch slices.

Combine the chili sauce, sesame oil, sherry, and water in a small bowl. Heat the oil in a wok or large skillet over medium-high heat until hot but not smoking. Add the white part of the onions and cook 1 minute. Then add the garlic and ginger and cook for another 2 minutes. Add the shrimp and hot pepper flakes and stir-fry until the shrimp turn pink, 3 to 4 minutes.  Stir the chili sauce mixture into the shrimp and cook for another minute. Add the Brussels sprouts and cook until heated through. Sprinkle with the green onion tops and serve with steamed rice. Serves 4.